What with the recession, a growing environmental awareness, and rapidly rising gasoline prices, more and more habitancy are developing a growing interest in the galvanic bicycle. The galvanic bike has long been a communication staple in Asia and Europe and is just now production its way to the shores of the New World. galvanic bikes can be purchased new from a store or you can turn your existing bicycle to an galvanic hybrid with a conversion kit. Conversion kits come in many separate powers, sizes and prices but by and large, you can fetch a far great and far less expensive galvanic bike from a kit than you can by buying one prebuilt. These kits are easy to setup and want only a few base tools and minimal skills. However, if you need to hire an electrician to turn a light bulb, they are not for you.
For this article, I am using a 350 watt 36 volt front wheel kit as they are far easier to deal with then a rear drive kit. Some features that I am describing in the installation may not be included in your kit, such as a horn button or headlight, but most of what is here will apply to any conversion kit.
Clamp Meter
The very first thing you will need to setup your galvanic bike kit is patience. Don't get in a rush. Take your time and do it right. Many websites claim that a conversion kit can be installed in about an hour. This may be true if all fits in effect perfectly, you have all you need and you have done this before. However, to make this a neat, professional finding job without production any mistakes, it will most probably take you most of an afternoon.
Step 1. Loosen the brake cables where they fasten at the calipers. Turn your bike upside down so that it rests on its cope bars and remove the whole front wheel. Replace the front wheel with the one from the kit. Make sure that the side of the wheel that has the wires protruding from it will be on the left side of the bike once it is turned right side up.
If the axle does not thoroughly fit into the slots of the "dropouts" you may have to file the slots a miniature wider. Use a mill file and file on the back side of the fork. Keep the filing flat and even and do both sides of the fork.
On the axle there are some washers. Slide the whole primary to thoroughly fill any space between the fork and the hub motor. You must use at least one washer on each side of the motor if the sides of the motor housing rub against the fork. You may have to apply a miniature muscle to this depending on the size of your fork. Left over washers can remain on the covering of the fork. Tighten the nuts very tight! If you do not do this, the motor may pull out of the front fork and damage the thin wires to the motor. If the front wheel does not freely spin once these nuts are tightened, then make adjustments to the spacing of the wheel in the fork with the extra washers.
Step 2. Now turn the bike right side up and attach the battery rack. This may want just a tad of trial and error with the spacing to make it fit correctly. Attach the battery mounting plate (this is packed attached to the battery) to the rack.
Step 3. remove the old grips from your cope bars. These may be very tight and want the use of tongs to twist them off or you can use a sharp blade to cut them off. After removing the grips, remove the customary brake levers. To do this, squeeze the brake levers and this will expose the ball at the end of the cable in the brake handle. Pull this out straight through the slot on the top of the cope and slide the lever assembly off of the cope bar. Depending on your bike you may first have to remove one or more of the shift levers.
Step 4. Mount he headlight in the town of the handlebars. Slide the horn button onto the left side of the handlebars and locate near the light. Slide the new brake levers onto the handlebars and replace the cables exactly the way they were on the customary levers. Slide the throttle cope on which ever side you prefer and the plain grip on the opposite end. This may all be very tight and a tiny bit of lubrication may be used to aid in locating these components. Do not tighten down any of the clamps and set screws until you have all positioned to your satisfaction.
Step 5. Manually squeeze the brake calipers almost accomplished and pull the brake cable tight straight through the lock down nut. Tighten the nut. Check the brakes to make sure that they close tightly but do not rub on the rims. Adjust as necessary.
Step 6. Securely attach the controller box to the frame of the bike. As you can see in the photograph above, I chose to attach the controller to the underside of the battery rack. Make sure that where you select to mount the controller, the wiring from the handlebars will be able to reach it. join together the wiring harness as shown by the wiring diagram. The connectors only fit one way, don't force them. Take your time and correlate the colors of the wires to the diagram if primary as well as make sure that all fits snug. Finally, slide the battery into the rack and join together the battery. Fasten down the wiring with the wire ties so that it is neat and will not snag. Leave enough slack in the cable to the motor so that you can turn the handlebars without stressing the cable.
Step 7. Turn on the key and make sure that the battery meter lights up. if it does not, turn off the key and recheck your connections. Now lift the front wheel off the ground and twist the throttle a miniature to see if the wheel turns. If it doesn't, turn off the key and recheck your connections. Your galvanic bike conversion kit is now complete.
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