Sunday, July 31, 2011

Great Price Fluke 337 True-RMS Full Size Digital Clamp On Meter with Backlight, 999.9A - AC/DC

Fluke 337 True-RMS Full Size Digital Clamp On Meter with Backlight, 999.9A - AC/DC Review


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Product Overview

Fluke 337 True-RMS Full Size Clamp On Meter with Backlight is a top-of-the-line True-rms clamp meter with MIN/MAX capability and a large jaw that measures ac/dc current and voltage, ohms, motor start up current (in-rush) and frequency. With the striking design of the Fluke 330 Series Clamp Meters, there???s a new way for you make to current measurements. Take a new look at current measurement, at how you use your tools, and how to get the results you need, faster and more conveniently. The result is a new, ergonomic concept, shaped to fit your hand and to access tight spots easily. Safety Conformance: IEC 1010-2-032, 600V CAT III. Fluke Meter includes: Coated instruction card, Safety information sheet, Soft carrying case, TL75 test leads, Two AA Alkaline batteries. Additional Information:Manufacturer Specification Sheet (PDF File)

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Friday, July 29, 2011

History of Vincent Hrd

Phillip Vincent was a determined man who had firm ideas on how a bike should perform, and more importantly, how a bike should be built.

He had studied mechanical science at Cambridge University and had a poor notion of many features of the contemporary machines.

Clamp Meter

In the 1920s, he built his first motorcycle. Like all others, it had rear suspension with a triangulated pivoted fork and the springs were mounted below the saddle to work against the upper frame. It had a Swiss Mag engine, a Moss gearbox, Webb forks and Enfield hubs.

In 1927, at the age of 19, he decided to go into firm making motorcycles. After taking guidance from Arthur Bourne, he purchased the established Hrd name from the Ok supreme Company.

The Hrd name may have only been 3 years old, but the name Howard R Davies was well known, as he had tied for second in the 1914 Senior Tt, been reported as killed in performance in 1917, and had won the 1921 Senior with his 350 Ajs. After forming his company, he was second in the Junior and won the Senior in 1925.

With this background, the models were in quiz, and were brought out before the name went onto Vincent. Davies was rather surprised at the bike that resulted, as the fine rigid frame was gone, so resulting in a machine that was totally changed other than in the use of a ownership engine. By 1930, Vincent Hrd was known as makers of high class, hand built machines.

Thanks to the depression, the firm could not have chosen a more inauspicious time to use rear suspension, as this was a major point against the marque. There was great prejudice against such things at that time, and the statement that all Tt winners used rigid frames countered any engineering reasoning.

Vincent sales were minimal, and like the Brough, they were a club for the dedicated. They gradually improved and, in 1930 went to Olympia with a range powered by Jap engines. For touring there were the 490 and 600cc side valve engines, and for sporting use, the same size Ohv engines. A pair of racing Jap engines cultivated the competition rider and ultimately there was the 350cc Grass Track racer. The latter was vital to Vincent sales, and in 1930, the sales were 36, which was up 50% on 1929.

This form progressed to 48 in 1931 and in the same year, the firm began to indicate Rudge Python engines as an choice after experiencing a run of troubles with the Jap units.

In late 1931, Phil Irving joined the firm and was immediately involved with the new frame. His knowledge was to complement the innovations that came from Vincent to furnish good working motorcycles.

The new frame set the format for the pre war Vincent and had a single tank, seat and down tubes. The machine was part of the buildings with small front plates and weighty rear ones. The latter surrounded the gearbox and in case,granted the mounting for the rear fork pivot and its taper roller bearings.

The rear suspension springs and dampers went below the saddle, and loaded by the triangulated rear fork. Damping was in case,granted by friction material in the middle of the inner and outer spring box covers and could be adjusted by the external clamps.

In this frame, the buyer had the choice of a 490cc Jap or a 499cc Python machine in suitable or sports form. For those who beloved the older style, there were five supplementary models listed, but hardly any were sold.

In 1933, a lightweight Model 'L' was added to the list and was powered by whether a 247cc Villiers machine or a 245cc side valve Jap engine, but it never went into production. The prototype had the two-stroke power unit and was spirited as it was partially enclosed with panels colse to the crankcase and transmission. It retained the brilliant sprung frame, as did the other models, which were all 500cc Ohv. One had a Jap engine, and the others had the python machine in two states of tune.

The two-stroke was modified for 1934, and became the model 'W' with a water-cooled 249cc Villiers engine. The frame was new and unlike the others, except in its retention of a triangulated rear fork and spring unit under the seat. The main frame was a malleable iron backbone to which were bolted two downtubes. These were attached to a channel section, which ran under the machine and gearbox to another, acting as a seat stay and rear fork pivot support. Strip stays braced the construction.

Phil Vincent was let down in the 1934 Tt, and with Rudge units becoming hard to get, he decided to make his own. He was to exhibit it at the next show; he had only four months to furnish it. He succeeded, and the invent set the style for all his future engines.

The valve gear was what set Vincent apart from the others, and began with a camshaft placed high up with push rods spayed out to run parallel to the valve line, which allowed the rockers to run straight across the head to the valves.

The news to make the headlines in 1937 was the appearance of the 998cc V twin Rapide that had broad performance. Unfortunately, it was too fast for the transmission, which was known to wilt under the torque. Phil Irving went to work for Velocette, but later returned in 1943.

In 1939, only three models remained, the Meteor, Comet and Rapide, and the Comet was known as the touring machine. Enthusiasts knew them as fast, faster and fastest.

Production ceased in 1939, and the firm turned to war work with some special designs for the services but also with thoughts of a high-speed tourer for the years to come.

Following the war, bike output resumed and for 1946, the firm introduced the Series B Rapide, which was radically dissimilar from the A. The oil pipes were internal and the gearbox was part of the machine casting. It had a shorter wheelbase and its dimensions were more like a 500cc motorcycle.

1948 saw the introduction of the Series C Rapide, Black Shadow and Black Lightning models.

The Black Shadow was capable of 125mph, and was no ifs ands or buts recognised by its back machine and gearbox unit, the Black Lightning was a racing version of the Black Shadow, with every vital steel part on it that could be, remade in aluminium and whatever that was not vital removed altogether, which reduced the weight from 458lb to 380lb. Every bit the racer, it had a single racing seat and rear set footrests.

With falling sales, Vincent tried construction two new high-speed touring models, the fully enclosed Vincent Victor (an upgraded comet), the Black Knight (an upgraded Rapide) and the Vincent Black Prince (an upgraded Shadow). The group poorly received them and a short-lived unfaired version of the Black Prince was produced. There was still a Series D Comet.

Sales declined supplementary owing to the availability of cheaper motor cars.

By 1954, Vincent was in an increasingly difficult situation. In the quest for solvency, Vincent looked for ways to heighten their position, and the firm revived the trike.

Sales fell further, and a one off prototype 3 wheeler powered by a Vincent Rapid 998cc machine was unofficially named "Polyphemus".

After any more prototypes, the then named "Vincent 3 wheeler" was offered to the group in 1955 at £500, a high price for any vehicle at the time, especially for a vehicle with no reverse gear, self starter or hood. The firm sold none.

Vincent Hrd motorcycles were hand built and expensive. 11000 machines were sold post World War 2, and the sales slump in 1954 forced the firm to invent Nsu mopeds. Only forty of the two stroke Nsu Vincent Fox were built. There was also the Ohv four stroke Nsu Vincent 98cc and Vincent sold the Nsu fast moped which 20000 units were sold in one year.

At a Vincent Owners Club supper in the summer of 1955, Phil Vincent announced that the firm could no longer continue in the face of such heavy losses and that output of motorcycles would cease practically immediately.

Just one week before Christmas, the last Vincent bike came off the output line. It was labelled "the last".

The factory then turned to general engineering, the invent of market engines, and there was the Amanda water scooter, maybe the first personal watercraft. A Vincent engineer lost his life testing it.

Phil Vincent declared that Vincent parts would always be available, and indeed, they still are, through the Vincent Owners Club, and other sources.

The firm went into receivership in 1959, but has since been bought and sold by other engineering firms.

History of Vincent Hrd

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Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Water Well Pumps And Accessories

For centuries citizen have been drawing water from private sources that are generated by rain being filtered as it seeps down through the soil, rocks, and loose gravel. From the days of hand dug wells, man has come a long way with technology and no longer has to draw this liquid with a rope and bucket. To ease with this burden, business has developed pumps and accessories that make drawing water easier than ever.

Above ground and submerged pumps are jet pumps that remain above ground. It uses suction to draw liquid into the pump which is then transferred to a tank. In order for this to work a vacuum must be created in a tube above the water. The submersible is slightly dissimilar in that it is a long, cylinder-shaped unit that fits inside a well casing. In the bottom is a sealed pump motor that pushes the liquid up pipes.

Clamp Meter

Holding tanks keep a source of liquid ready while the rest of the unit engages. The larger the tank, the less often the pump has to control and, therefore, its life is prolonged. There may be a need for choosing a lid to allow access in case the unit has to be removed. This prevents dirt, debris, and small animals and rodents from falling into the well.

Brass and stainless steel fittings are needed to associate everything. Some citizen prefer brass, but stainless steel is also used to forestall rusting of the metals. Pipes are related using an assortment of fittings and can include the use of screw clamps. Mounting bolts and other hardware are also used to derive the pump.

Pressure reducing valves and a flow control valve fabricate the number of flow and help keep all things in check. You will want a meter to see the settings and a water level control system to help articulate the pressure of the liquid drawn. Keep in mind that there will be enough pressure that good ability valves, meters, and other fittings are significant to forestall accidents.

Electrical pumps need a power source and, along with it, an electrical disconnect. This is for both protection and convenience and should be at the pump site. An electrode pump protection gismo is used to safe the tool from incoming spikes and surges from the utility company or lightning strikes. It is better to be safe than sorry. With the proper tool there can be abundance of good well water that will be ready whenever it is needed.

Water Well Pumps And Accessories

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Saturday, July 23, 2011

Great Price FLUKE 334 CLAMP-ON METERS

FLUKE 334 CLAMP-ON METERS Review


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Product Overview

Slim body and jaws fit into tight places Measurements can be done with one hand Improved low current measurement accuracy Includes batteries, carrying case and instruction card Three-year warranty

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Wednesday, July 20, 2011

engine Oil Flow measurement - Which Flowmeter?

One of the most difficult flow measurements for the automotive engineer is to measure the motor oil flow rate under operating conditions. With the motor mounted on a test bench and coupled to a dynamometer, the job is slightly easier due to the increased space availability, but none the less, meticulous option and premise of the flow determination system is required. Flow measurements required in the motor bay of a vehicle come to be additional restricted due to instrument power requirement, premise space required and the harsh under bonnet conditions.

What are the flowmeter options? Well, business standards seem to exist to some extent, but this does not mean they are correct. Let us look at some options.

Clamp Meter

(1) The obvious displacement meter, this could be in the form of a gear meter, piston meter or helical screw to name a few. These meters are generally on the higher cost side and can cause issues when installed due to their relatively high pressure drop. Although quite good at operating across wide viscosities they do suffer from meter slippage at low viscosities. Meters vary in size, but can often be installed without the need for any flow conditioning. Used by some motor test houses but not an ideal solution.

(2) Turbine flow meter, generally one of the most widely used flowmeters for motor oil flow measurement, mainly due to its low costs and small size. They can be purchased relatively undoubtedly from a host of manufacturers and have a manageable pressure drop which is not too detrimental to oil system performance. They are sensitive to oil and fluid flow profile effects, so it is very prominent to calibrate the flow meter across the varying oil viscosity range and with its installed upstream and downstream flow conditioning tubes. To ensure precise results when in use, it is requisite to match the installed conditions as close as possible. Quite often master flow calibration laboratories will calibrate the flow meter on the same motor oil, at the same operating climatic characteristic and with the same inlet and outlet connections as per the installed engine. Sometimes this may be part of the motor assembly, such as an oil cooler or oil filter assembly, generally the easiest part of the motor where the oil flow can be interrupted. Many flow meter manufacturers only supply a calibration certificate on water, which can lead to very large errors if used on motor oils.

(3) Coriolis meters. Very good high accuracy meters, that would only be superior to fixed installations. These meters remain very high-priced and are large in size, compared to the turbine and obvious displacement meters. These meters have progressed well over the last 10 years, but can still be prone to poor installation, vibration and zero drift determination errors. Ideal for test bench use where they are enduringly installed, and with right tube models now becoming a norm, they offer low pressure drop and exquisite viscosity rangeability.

(4) Pressure Drop Characterization. An increasingly coarse recipe for obtaining precise measurements without affecting the oil system carrying out due to insertion of flowmeters. Individual parts of the motor oil flow system are instrumented for pressure tapping locations and each motor part is flow characterized on a calibration bench for oil flow against pressure drop at the required temperatures. Once each system has been characterized the motor is reassembled and tested, and the recorded pressure measurements are then used to obtain the flow rate. This recipe is generally used on requisite motor lubrication surveys, where the insertion of a flow meter would have a detrimental succeed on the oil flow system.

(5) Ultrasonic Clamp on meter. Although a non intrusive device, due to its right pipe premise requirements, it does mean the system becomes intrusive into the oil determination system. Still very high-priced to purchase, and presently not sufficiently tested in these applications to come to be a favorable contender, although progressing faster than most other techniques.

Having decided on your recipe of flow measurement, and undertook the required level of flow meter calibration across the range of operating temperatures, you are close to taking a basal step forward in acquiring good flow determination results. Engineers relatively new to motor lubrication studies should seek advice from the Flow Calibration Laboratory, who should be suitably experienced in this type of flow determination application and be in a good position to find the best clarification for your allocation and flowmeter hardware inventory.

Other Issues to bear in mind. The involved nature of motor oil flow determination means it is very difficult to get precise oil flow readings from a running engine, but the informed engineer can make sound engineering judgements on their determination process. Keep in mind the influences of oil viscosity, oil temperature, meter premise succeed on flowmeter and oil pump performance, oil aeration, relief valve effects and hysteresis, fuel dilution effects, motor oil levels, etc. The next series of discussions will delve deeper into the implications of these parameters in more detail.

engine Oil Flow measurement - Which Flowmeter?

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Monday, July 18, 2011

Great Price Fluke 334 Digital Clamp Meter

Fluke 334 Digital Clamp Meter Review


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Product Overview

Leading the way with innovative features that fit the way you work. Features: Auto shut—off maximizes battery life so the meter works when you need it Small body and jaws fit perfectly in your hand and into tight places Large, backlit display (on most models) is easy to see In—rush current function (on most models) for measuring starting current for motors, lighting, etc. Improved low current measurement accuracy from new microprocessor technology Meter controls are positioned so current measurements can be done with one hand Handy display hold keeps measurements on the display Three year warranty

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Saturday, July 16, 2011

How to Troubleshoot a Hot Tub Heater

I have been asked this question by so many customers. Why won't my hot tub heat up? I have talked habitancy through this process over the phone and have sent them a list of information on how to test the spa heater themselves. I do not usually propose that an end user try to troubleshoot their own spa. Working with electricity can be risky and working with electricity and water can be deadly. It is all the time recommended to contact a mighty aid technician for any troubleshooting. That said, many habitancy are more than capable of troubleshooting their own spa heater and this guide will help them.

Spa & Hot Tub Heater Troubleshooting Guide

Clamp Meter

An easy to effect Spa & Hot Tub heater Troubleshooting Guide. Troubleshooting a spa heater can be a simple course if you have the right tools.

Note: This troubleshooting guide is meant for trained spa aid professionals. It is not recommended for the spa owner to troubleshoot their own spa.

Tools you will need to have are:

A Multimeter, to check voltage, and a Clamp on Amp Meter, to check for amp draw at the element. You can not accurately troubleshoot a Spa heater element without these tools.

Multi-Meter: Used to test for voltage at the heater element terminals.

Amp Meter: Used to check for amp draw by the heater element.

You will also need assorted hand tools. Screw drivers, Pliers, open end wrenches, etc.

Note: Spa must be full of water and in normal operating condition to perform these tests

To test the heater element, you must: Check voltage at heater element

1. Turn Power off to spa. (This means to shut off source voltage to the spa at the breaker or disconnect).
2. Open equipment area and find the heater assembly.
3. Open the spa heater assembly to expose the heater terminals.
4. Make sure all other wires and connections are away from the heater terminals.
5. Open spa filter housing and take off filter. Replace filter lid and obtain for operation.
6. Double check area nearby heater terminals to make sure you have way to the terminals with the multi-meter probes, without the hazard of touching other contacts.
7. Remember, when you re-apply power to spa, you will be working with 240 volts of electricity. Water and electricity do not mix.
8. Make sure no water is near the terminals where you will be working. Also, make sure you are not kneeling or standing in water while testing for voltage at the heater terminals.
9. Re-apply power to spa and turn thermostat up to cause heater to come on. Listen to spa to see if operation sounds normal.
10. Turn multi-meter on and plug probes into the meter as directed by the meter instructions. You will be testing voltage.
11. Carefully place one probe on one of the element terminals.
12. Carefully place the second probe on the other heater terminal.
13. Read your multi-meter for voltage at the element.
14. take off both probes, and write down the voltage you read from your test.
15. Turn power off to spa. If you received "0" volts at the heater terminal, your question is most likely not the heater element. If you received the precise voltage at the heater terminals, you must now check for amp draw at your heater.

Check amp draw at heater element

1. Turn power off to spa. (This means to shut off source voltage to the spa at the breaker or disconnect).
2. Find wires that join together to the spa heater terminals.
3. Clamp one wire that goes to your heater element, with your amp-meter.
4. Make sure all wires are obtain and safe for operation.
5. Re-apply power to your spa and turn thermostat up to cause heater to come on.
6. Check amp-meter to see if amps are being drawn by your heater element.
7. Turn Power off to spa.
8. Write down the amp reading from your amp-meter. If you received an amp reading from your heater. Your heater element is working. You need to look for problems elsewhere.

*I f you received the proper voltage at the heater terminals, but received no amp reading when the spa was operating, the heater element is bad.

What to do if heater element tests good during these tests, but does not heat spa, during normal operation. Remember step 5 in the voltage test. You removed the filter. Check condition of filter, run spa for 24 hrs without filter in place to see if spa heats normally. If spa heats usually with filter out, replace filter with new.

Now be aware every hot tub / spa is different. If you have a digital system, make note of any displayed error codes. The new digital systems on the spas today will do much of the troubleshooting for you if you know what it is telling you, but let's leave that for other record though.

How to Troubleshoot a Hot Tub Heater

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Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Great Price Fluke Remote Display True-rms AC/DC Clamp Meter With iFlex

Fluke Remote Display True-rms AC/DC Clamp Meter With iFlex Review


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Product Feature

  • FLUKE-381

Product Overview

First clamp meter with a detachable, remote display for easier, faster, safer measurements! Model 381 model with wireless remote display lets you do the jobs that used to take two people. Clamp around a conductor, remove the display and walk across the room (up to 30 ft.) to operate controls or remove protective equipment, all while watching real-time readings. Radio transmitter automatically turns off when the display is connected to the meter. Both models feature large, easy-to-read, backlight display which automatically sets the correct measurement range. The 18" iFlex™ flexible current probe expands the measurement range to 2500 A ac while providing increased display flexibility, ability to measure awkward-sized conductors and improved wire access. Includes soft carrying case. Measurement capability: 1000 A ac and dc current measurement with fixed jaw 2500 A ac current measurement with iFlex™ flexible current probe 1000 V ac and dc voltage measurement True-rms ac voltage and current for accurate measurements on non-linear signals Frequency measurement to 500 Hz with both jaw and iFlex™ 60 kΩ resistance measurement with continuity detection Min, max, average and inrush recording to capture variations automatically 3-Year Warranty

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Monday, July 11, 2011

Check Out AC Line Splitter for $13.25

AC Line Splitter Review


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Product Feature

  • For Measuring Current in Plug-In Appliances and Air Conditioners
  • Splits Two Conductor Line Cord For Reading at Outlets Under Load
  • Permits Voltage Measurements at Outlet Under Active Conditions
  • Direct and 10X Sensitivity

Product Overview

AC Line Splitter.This instrument is a special accessory for clamp meters which can be used to measure current conveniently without destroying the insulation part of the equipment power line.

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Saturday, July 9, 2011

Great Price Fluke 322 Clamp Meter w/DC Volts

Fluke 322 Clamp Meter w/DC Volts Review


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Product Overview

The Fluke 322 is designed to verify the presence of load current, AC voltage and continuity of circuits, switches, fuses and contacts. These small and rugged clamp meters are ideally suited for current measurements up to 400 A in tight cable compartments. The Fluke 322 also offers DC voltage measurements and has a higher resolution for loads below 40 A.

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Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Great Price Fluke 31 Clamp Meter

Fluke 31 Clamp Meter Review


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Product Feature

  • Measures - Current AC
  • Display - LCD and Analog
  • Amps Range AC - 700A (1000A peak)
  • Frequency Range - 10,000Hz
  • Parts Included - Clip-On Holster, 9V Battery

Product Overview

True RMS AC Current, Display Hold, Manual/Auto Ranging

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Saturday, July 2, 2011

Great Price Fluke AC285 SureGrip Alligator Clips

Fluke AC285 SureGrip Alligator Clips Review


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Product Feature

  • For use with TL222 and TL224 test leads
  • Nickel plated steel jaws
  • One pair (red, black)
  • SureGrip accessories are designed to improve steadiness in slippery hands
  • Rubber overmolded surfaces and finger-hugging curves give the user a comfortable, reliable grip

Product Overview

Sure-Grip accessories are designed to improve steadiness in slippery hands. Rubber over molded surfaces and finger-hugging curves give the user a comfortable, reliable grip on the accessory so they can focus on making an accurate measurement.

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