Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Tips to convert the Battery in a Computer

Computer has battery or a special chip which retains computer (Cmos) settings and also runs the computer lock even after the computer itself is turned off. When you have to reset the date and the time on the computer every time you start it, you will need to replace the battery of your computer. This policy is applied to Ibm-compatible computers which have a replaceable battery or the connector for the space battery. At this time, this description is going to deliver any tips to change the battery in a computer. So, just check out the following tips.

The first thing that you should do is to description the settings of the current Cmos first. Then, you should turn on or restart the computer. When the computer settings are displayed on the screen, you have to press the Pause key or the Break key in a way to frost the computer display.

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The second thing that you need to do is to press the Print Screen key for printing the display, or just write the settings on paper. You should keep this data in case you are losing the settings of your computer.

The third thing is to turn off your computer and unplug it. After that, you should remove the cover.

The fourth thing that you need to do is to description the battery type which is currently installed, but do not remove it. The lithium or the alkaline batteries are in the holders attached to the motherboard. The built-in batteries are then soldered onto the motherboard, but the connector must be available for the space battery. In this step, you have to note the type of the connector.

The fifth thing is to buy a transfer battery.

The next thing is to remove your existing battery and then replace it with new battery in exactly the same configuration. Spare batteries with the connector usually fit one way only, but you should check the computer documentation.

Lastly, you should replace the computer cover, then plug in the power cord, and start the computer. Now you can reset the date and time of your computer.

Tips to convert the Battery in a Computer

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Sunday, March 27, 2011

Check Out Fluke 321 Clamp Meter for $93.00

Fluke 321 Clamp Meter Review


Click To Buy Best Price from Amazon

Product Feature

  • New smaller size fits easily into tight places
  • Continuity test function for quick checking of shorts
  • Precise measurements with 1.8-Percent basic accuracy
  • Automatic low battery indicator
  • Display hold function

Product Overview

Big features, small package The Fluke 321 is designed to verify the presence of load current, AC voltage and continuity of circuits, switches, fuses and contacts. This small and rugged clamp meter is ideally suited for current measurements up to 400 A in tight cable compartments. Features: This affordable instrument combines a compact package with a strong feature set: New smaller size fits easily into tight places Precise measurements with 1.8% basic accuracy Resolution up to 0.01A and 0.1 V Measures AC current to 400 A Measures AC volts to 600 V Resistance measurement to 400 Ω Continuity for quick checking of shorts Automatic low battery indicator Display hold function Two year warranty Specifications: Resolution: 0.1 V Resolution: 1 V Accuracy: 1% ± 5 counts Voltage AC Range: 0 - 400 V Resolution: 0.1 V Accuracy: 1.2% ± 5 counts (50 - 400 Hz) AC Response: Averaging Current AC Range: 0 - 400 A Resolution: 0.1 A Accuracy: 1.8% ± 5 counts (50 - 60 Hz) Accuracy: 3.0% ± 5 counts (60 - 400 Hz) AC Response: Averaging Resistance Range: 0 - 400 Ω Resolution: 0.1 Ω Accuracy: 1% ± 5 counts Continuity: Environmental Specifications Operating Temperature: -10°C to +50°C Storage Temperature: -30°C to +60°C Operating Altitude: 2,000 meters Temperature De-rating: Add 0.1 x specified accuracy for each °C above 28°C or below 18°C Safety Specifications Safety Rating: IEC 1010-2-032, 600V CAT III Mechanica

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Friday, March 25, 2011

Tips to Safely Use Multimeter

Mulimeter is a beneficial tool that used for troubleshooting circuits, either it is located in Dvd player or in automobile. This tool can contribute readings for current, voltage, and also resistance via direct interaction with the circuits. When you are using this device, it is very important for you to take precautions and be attentive since it is designed to interact with the live wires. In order to sacrifice the occurrence of the hazardous incidents, it is required particular test of the multimeter settings and also practicing the safe testing process. At this time, this description is going to give you any tips that will guide you to safely use multimeter. So, just check out the easy tips below.

The first thing that you have to do is to set your multimeter to the type of measurements that you want to take. You should make sure that your multimeter matches are appropriately set for either alternating of the direct current when you are measuring the voltage or current.

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The second thing that you need to do is to set down or hang up your multimeter before you are going to take readings. You have to make sure that a short circuit will occur during the testing since it can sacrifice the chances of injury, particularly in the instances where the multimeter does not have a fuse as security features.

The third thing that you have to do is to connect the test leads. Apparently a easy step, the improperly connecting test leads will lead to the catastrophic failure of multimeter, based on the resources from Northwestern University Mechatronics fabricate Laboratory. The accidentally testing voltage with the test lead that plugged into a jack used for the testing resistance can cause such a failure.

Lastly, you should disconnect the ground clip after all of the other circuits have been disconnected. So, by following the easy tips above, now you can use your multimeter safely.

Tips to Safely Use Multimeter

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Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Troubleshooting Problems With Your Fastback Model 11 Binding engine

If you have a Powis Parker Fastback model 11 binding engine you probably already know how easy it is to use. However, from time to time with any engine problems can arise. This description is designed to supply a quick troubleshooting guide for the Fastback 11 that will supply you with some of the most base problems, their causes and inherent solutions. If you have a problem that is not listed here, you should in fact experience an authorized Fastback dealer and they should be able to either walk you straight through a solution to your problem or set up a aid call to fix your unit.

Problem #1: engine Doesn't Power On
This problem can sometimes occur if there is a problem with A.C. Power. Check to make sure that the Ac power cord is firmly plugged in to the back of the engine and into the wall. Also check to make sure that you have power to the outlet that you are trying to use. It is also inherent that you may have a blown fuse on your machine. If this is the case you will need to replace the fuse before the unit will work.
Problem #2: Can't Insert A Binder Strip
This problem most often occurs when the book clamp is not finished on the machine. Press the bind button to kick off the book clamp and you should then be able to insert your strip.
Problem #3: Left Status Indicator Light Blinks Red And The Bind Clamps Re-Open After The Bind Button Is Pressed
This problem will happen if the document is too thick to be bound with the Model 11. You will need to take off some pages or bind the document in two sections. If you frequently need to bind documents larger than 1 inch thick you may need to reconsider upgrading from the Fastback 11 to the Fastback 15xs.
Problem #4: Document Is Not Bound
This problem can happen if you accidently insert the Binder Strip wrong side up into the machine. If this is the case you will need to clean your engine to take off the adhesive that was deposited onto the heater plate of your unit. This can also occur if you are using a twisted or damaged Fastback Strip. In that case you simply need to retry with a new Binderstrip.
Problem #5: Binderstrip Is Not In Line With The End Of The Document
This can happen if the wrong distance of Binderstrip is used. Check and make sure that the distance of the Binderstrip and the document match. This can happen if you inadvertently bind a document with a damaged Fastback Strip. Try a new strip and see if it works better. This can also happen if there is adhesive buildup on the heater plate of your unit. If this is the case you will need to clean the heater plate.
Problem #6: Binderstrip Is Only Partially Bound To The Document Or Is Severely Askew.
This problem can happen if there is adhesive buildup on the heater plate of the Fastback 11. The adhesive will need to be cleaned off before the unit will operate properly. This problem can also happen if you effort to use a damaged Binderstrip. If there isn't any adhesive buildup on the heating plate or internal strip guide then you may want to try other strip to see if that works.
Problem #7: Binderstrip Is Ejected From The engine And The Right Status Light Is Solid Red.
This problem commonly occurs if a Binderstrip is fed incorrectly or more than one strip is fed at one time. Check to make sure that you aren't trying to feed more than one strip and determined insert a singular strip again.
Problem #8: Right Status Light Is Solid Red And Power Light Is Solid Red
This error commonly means that there is a binderstrip jammed inside your machine. You will need to take off the jammed strip and clean up any adhesive residue before trying to bind other book.
Problem #9: Power Light Is Continuous Red
This is a code that indicated engine malfunction. You should try and turn the power switch of the unit off and then turn it on again. If the problem persists you will need to call your Powis Parker authorized dealer to arrange a aid call.

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Troubleshooting Problems With Your Fastback Model 11 Binding engine

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Monday, March 21, 2011

Have Power Tools Helped The construction commerce

Power tool technology has all the time helped tradesman and building industries and it has made life more high paced and efficient. everywhere we have devices working for us which sell out our exertion yet give us the best results. Power tools are very trustworthy and they work continuously without high maintenance in in the middle of and troubling us. More than anything else, the building business has developed a lot with the help of these power tools and it is rescue money and resources by a great deal. Drilling on a building site with no large drill press ordinarily is a daunting task and it is the toughest work for a mason. But power drills have made work easy and without putting strain on the user's hand, the tools allow him to drill holes into a wall. They even have magnetic bases to clamp on to the beams with feed handles. Since some of these electric tools are cordless, the tradesman don't have the issue to find power sockets for the tools to be operated.

The building business can also sell out their man power with the help of power tools and that reduces a indispensable amount of money for them. The makita tool combo kits now have the indispensable accessories to cover many applications instead of hiring ten dissimilar tradesman. They can buy a tool combo kit which helps them cover many dissimilar jobs. Without these tools, the business would never save money or time and would naturally not be competitive.

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The use of power tools has all the time been an advantage to the building industry. With this the business has taken a giant leap into this corporate arena where cut throat competition is the order of the day. This also focuses on the fact that the present environment is also changing where population are getting adapted to speed. The Bosch batteries are charging faster, chronic longer and becoming more reliable. building is something that needs to be done at a fair pace in order to meet up with the client's requirements. So to make that possible the evolution of tools has done it a whole world of good.

Growth through power tool technology is something which every business would look for. And attaining increase is not so easy. It involves a lot of possible to work and also compete with the best. As the saying goes, to be the best you need to beat the best. This is the same calculate big brands like Makita, Bosch, Hitachi and Dewalt have lead the store in the cordless tool industry. The building business has very well realized this fact and is manufacture optimum use of the available cordless tools. However just possessing them isn't the solution. One must know how they can be used so as to citation the maximum advantage out of it which is what the building business is doing with the help of power tools. Today's best Dewalt cordless drills, saws and jigsaws are becoming so cost efficient even home handyman are buying them for small home projects! This speaks volumes about the capability and cost of these Hitachi electric tools.

Have Power Tools Helped The construction commerce

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Saturday, March 19, 2011

Cobb Tuning - Mazdaspeed 3 and 6 Subaru Wrx/Sti Xle Bpv

With the introduction to Cobb Tuning development a comeback to producing hard parts, their startling issue of a bypass valve is welcomed. Many of us have been waiting for a valve that is easy to adjust, sounds great and works 100% without any surging on the turbo compressor.

Question: So what exactly is a Bpv and what is the dissimilarity between a Bov ( Blow off valve ) and a Bpv (Bypass Valve)?

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Answer: Its simple.. It all boils down to whether or not your car runs on speed density or mass air. If you have a car that is speed density, you will not have a mass air meter. So, effectively, you can run a Blow Off Valve which give off a very loud Whoosh sound as you shift gears when in boost. A Bypass Valve takes that boosted air its venting, and recirculates it back into the intake. The importance of this on a mass air car is, that air was already metered and counted, therefore, venting that air to the climate will cause your can to go rich. You are effectively removing air once counted and letting it blow in the air, so the car is going to add more fuel mental that air is still incoming. Many enthusiast prefer the sound of a Bov, but generally they end up doing damage to their catalytic converters because of the rich conditions incorporated into running a Vta ( Vent To climate ) theory on a Maf adequate car.

Question: Whats the purpose of these valves anyways?

Answer:

1) Boosted cars yield large amounts of pressurized air that is pumped very fast throughout the intake system. When the throttle body is open, this air can move very fast into the engine. Once the throttle body closes, that fast consuming air has no place to go. You have an abundance of air trapped in a small place ( fee pipes ) which can burst, causing vital damage to your intake theory and even your cars hood. On turbocharged cars especially, its main function as a Bypass Valve (Bpv)/Blow Off Valve (Bov), is to issue this boost pressure to preclude this pressurized air from being diverted back toward the turbo impellers. If this pressurized air is not released, the diverted air can cause the turbine wheels to slow and possibly even stall, causing wear and damage to the turbocharger. A turbochargers impeller wheels can spin in excess of over 60,000 Rpm, so if the impeller was to fail, you would see a lot of damage.

2) Its second function is being able to hold peak boost during gear change without a vital loss of boost during this event. A good Bpv/Bov can hold a high number of boost, for the needed time of shifting gears, without degrading performance.

3) One foremost thing to remember on a Mazda, the stock Bpv leaks, even at as low as 8 psi of boost. That is almost half of the rated 15 psi a speed can yield stock!

Cobb Tuning has an sass for those seeing for that loud blow off sound but with a safety margin, the Cobb Tuning Xle Bpv. It can be setup to run in 3 modes, one of them being a hybrid mode that allows a minuscule number of Vta without placing the car in a lean condition. You get that loud Whoosh but you also get that foremost counted air, recirculated back into the system.

Even though this valve comes in at a steep price of 9, its not any more costly then the most over-rated Bpv on the market, the Hks Ssbov... The Cobb Xle doesn't require any type of flange adapter. The Hks requires an adapter to be fitted to it before it can be mounted on a Mazdaspeed 3 or 6. Installing the adapter is a pain since it uses a snap ring... The most troubling part of the Hks is how much plastic is found inside the valve, but more daunting, its inability to be adjustable. 0? Really? There are numerous reports on our forum about the Hks falling apart... The plastic inside is breaking... This is surely not the type of valve I want inside my car. Step aside, we have a new Bpv on the shop thats going out be worth the 9.

The Cobb Tuning Xle Bpv is one unit that can be adapted to any cars. First off, if you plan to replace your Mazda with a scoobie, this can be done with a simple part change without having to buy a new valve. Below are the specs on the Cobb Xle:

Features

Body

* Body, mounting flange and secondary outlet cover are constructed of 6061 T6 aluminum.
* The body is hard anodized for further strength.
* The original outlet is rectangular in shape to provide maximum cross sectional area for venting pressurized air as fast as possible.
* The secondary outlet cover can be removed to enable partial vent to climate or full vent to climate modes.
* Unit height is only 3.5 inches from base of flange to top preload adjuster,allowing it to fit into the tightest of locations.
* Body to mounting flange interface is o-ring sealed, allowing flanges of dissimilar shapes to work on complicated applications.

Piston

* Lightweight aluminum piston allows faster reaction time than heavier pistons.
* The aluminum piston has been hard anodized and impregnated with Teflon to provide plane movement, sacrifice outside wear and minimize maintenance.
* Rounded piston profile smooths air flow as it passes through they cylinder.
* The rounded piston profile mates with a rounded piston seat for classic sealing when the Bpv is closed.
* Tight tolerance o-rings are used to seal piston to cylinder bore properly at normal machine operating temperatures without sacrificing piston speed.

Preload Adjuster and Spring

* Adjuster allows adjustment of spring preload for fine tuning issue pressure.
* Spring and spring seat are constructed of 303 stainless steel.
* Spring preload adjustment mechanism and fasteners are stainless steel.

Operation

* Valve vents pressurized air very fast due to lightweight components, port shape and low sliding friction.
* Unique exhaust sound due to speed of air release.
* construction materials make the Xle Bpv compatible with alcohol/water injection due to possible corrosion resistance. * Lighter than most aftermarket Bpvs and Bovs.

Operating Modes

Full Recirculation - Outlet is plumbed back into the intake tract pre-turbo. This configuration provides the best driveability with stock based Maf systems. This configuration generates the least number of noise.

Hybrid Mode - Outlet is plumbed back into the intake tract pre-turbo and the auxiliary port cover is removed. When the piston is more than 30% open, the auxilliary port is opens, audibly venting to atmosphere. Less than 30% open results in full recirculation to enhance driveability.

Full climate - Outlet and auxiliary port are open to atmosphere. Recommended only for Map based air metering. This configuration generates the top sound levels.

Adjustment

Spring Preload - Spring preload determines the pressure differential across the Bpv piston required before the Bpv opens and releases the pressurized intake charge. The Cobb Xle Bpv can be adjusted by loosening the locknut and turning the allen-head shaft clockwise for more preload or counter-clockwise for less preload. Once preload is set, the locknut is retightened and ensures the adjustment is secure.

Installation:

Parts List:

* Bypass Valve
* O-ring (Mazdaspeed 3 Application Only)
* Paper Gasket (Mazdaspeed 3 or Lgt/08+ Wrx Applications Only)

Tools Required:

* 3/8" Ratchet
* 10mm & 12mm Socket
* 10mm & 12mm Open End Wrench
* Pliers

Tools Required for Maintenance:

* 3mm Allen Key
* 4mm Allen Key
* 13mm Open End Wrench
* Moly-Based Grease

Installing this piece couldn't be easier. The stock bpv is black in color, made of plastic can can be found on a stock Mazda right at the cold pipe on the stock Tmic

1) Take a pair of pliers and remove the recirc hose on the back of the valve (large 23mm hose). Guide the pliers to the butterfly clamp, compress pliers to issue tension and slide back clamp 3 inches from the lip. Tug on the hose to issue it from the valve.

2) Take the pliers and remove the small vac line in the same manner as you did the above recirc hose.

3) remove the (2) 10mm bolts holding on the Bpv onto the pipe and put them off to the side, we will reuse these.

Now, you have to decide if you want to run full recirc or hybrid mode. If you choose to run the louder hybrid mode, you will need to remove the trap door on the valve with a 3mm allen key/bit. Theres only 4 of these holding it on, so its literally simple.

Once you have decided which route you will take, remove the paper gasket from the box and place it on the valve, using both bolts to hold it in place. simple place the valve back onto the Bpv flange and retighten it. Now word of caution here.. If you Are using an alumn Tmic, I strongly propose using a ratchet prolongation with a 10mm deep well socket to hand tighten both bolts evenly. Once they are hand tight, give one good 1/4 inch crank on both bolts and that's it. They hardly require much torque and we keep hearing about Hercules breaking off his bolts in the cold pipe or stripping the threads.

Once you got it torqued back down, plainly associate both hoses and take it out for a drive. I seriously doubt you will need to make any adjustments to the valve, but if you do, keep reading.

Adjustment:

Adjusting this valve is a no brainer. simple place a 13mm open end wrench onto the jam nut settled on top where the vac line attaches, then take a 4mm allen/bit and go clockwise to growth spring tension ( growth the opening of compressor surge / vent slower ) or counter-clockwide to decrease spring pressure ( decrease the opening of compressor surge / vent faster ).

Now a word to the wise for you noobs.. Increasing the spring tension here does Not growth the number of boost this valve can hold. If you want to hold more boost, a dissimilar spring will need to be installed in this valve.

Maintenance:

It is recommended that every time you change your oil you discover your Cobb Tuning Bypass Valve to make sure the piston is still consuming freely. You can do so by unbolting the Bpv from the vehicle mounting flange and pushing on the piston. If you can feel some resistance, it is advised to remove the piston from the body and clean and re-grease the piston, we propose Arp Ultra-Torque fastener Assembly Lubricant, P/N 100-9911, but any moly-based grease will work fine. I prefer the redline red moly that I used during both the Cobb Sts and Twm carrying out Sts installation.

Disassemble the Cobb Tuning Bpv

In order to remove the piston, unbolt the base flange from the body using a 3mm allen key. Depending on the Bpv model you have, this may be 5-6 socket head cap screws. When removing the piston, be true to not cut the o-ring. If your o-ring is damaged, you can touch Cobb Tuning for a replacement.

Reassemble the Cobb Tuning Bpv

To reassemble the Bpv, push the piston back into the body, so that the piston does not protrude from the body. You can hold the piston at that point by placing your finger over the vacuum connection.

Place the base flange onto the body and re-clock the flange. Secure the flange with the 5-6 socket head cap screws, depending on the model, using a 3mm allen key.

Conclusion:

I am so happy to see such an easy valve hit the shop that not only looks and sounds cool, but is fully functional, adjustable and isn't finicky right out of the box. For years I was running a Forge Valve that had a blue spring and 2 shims. It gave me issues with no shims, it also gave me issues with a red shim. It was 75% on mark with 2 shims.

With the Cobb Xle, I hold all of my boost during shift and its loud, meaning habitancy know you are on the boost. It also doesn't sound like a merge of ninjas having a sword fight under the hood like the Forge does.

Keep your eye on the valve needing grease, esp is you are running the hybrid mode or your car is in a lot of moisture like rain or snow. This will def breakdown the grease in the piston.

Also keep in mind that the paper gasket Is needed on both the scoobies and Mazda's. I have seen some genius's attempt to go straight o-ring and unless your flange is 100% level, you are going to leak some boost without the gasket. So, use the gasket guys... It is re-usable and needed for our application to keep this valve from leaking.

I would like to thank Gary Sheehan for accidentally placing this in the box while getting the Cobb Fmic V2.0 out to us!

Cobb Tuning - Mazdaspeed 3 and 6 Subaru Wrx/Sti Xle Bpv

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Thursday, March 17, 2011

Clamp on Amp Meter - How Does it Work?

The amp meter is the great gismo that will quantum a current in the circuit in amperes that will be the determination of a movement of the electrons over one point straight through the time.

Non-clamp-on ammeters

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The first ammeter was the galvanometer, which can exploit the deflection of the needle by the current straight through the coil, finished straight through spring action; galvanometer will quantum the only direct current. Moving the iron ammeter can quantum both of the direct current and also alternating current and then replace a needle with the piece of the iron that will be acted on by the deflection over a magnetic field. In measuring the larger currents, the shunt which usually acts as the resistor is added to a system; most currents will be redirected by the shunt and, as the resistance will over a shunt is known, it will remain potential to the quantum a current.

Clamp-on ammeter

The clamp-on ammeter, also recognized as the current clamp or even current probe, will be clamped colse to the conductor via the two jaws; it is allowing a monitor in getting a reading of the amperage. usually speaking, clamp-on ammeter uses the jaws in order to detect the magnetic field of the conductor, which will act on the iron vane, or even the sensitive cylinder of an iron, which will contribute a reading of the current.

Multimeter

A clamp-on ammeter can be the part of an electrician's or even other technician's multimeter that will be an instrument capable form taking the estimate of the electrical readings just like current, resistance and also voltage.

Clamp on Amp Meter - How Does it Work?

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